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The Atlantic and then the Andes

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After our few days in Buenos Aires, we set out on the trip south. We had the next two weeks mapped out with a general route, but nothing booked until Patagonia. Just our rental car, Lonely Planet guidebook, and three phones with Argentina playlists. 

Mar del Plata was our first destination outside of Buenos Aires. Also where our stick shift skills were really tested (read: parallel parking on steep city hills). Beautiful sunset and sunrise view on the south Atlantic. 
Beautiful views driving across the countryside ... 
Guanacos, or Patagonian alpacas. We were warned about driving early in the morning or late at night because they frequently jump into the road. 
San Martin de los Andes ... the most beautiful, cozy little mountain town where we had wood fired pizza and wandered the streets and chocolate shops, bundled in puffy coats and fleece leggings. We stayed in an adorable alcove room of a ski hostel, in pine wood bunks and with just enough ceiling space to string up some laundry. 
The next morning started driving la Ruta de los Siete Lagos, or the Route of the Seven Lakes. A gorgeous drive, clearly. 
Ordering mishaps. Sometimes the same words are interpreted differently at different places... !! Ate some things that certainly weren't favorites.
Arrived in El Chalten, trekking capital of Argentina. Our first night we did a trial hike to break out our gear and have a little more outside time in awe of the snow covered mountains. 
The next day we got the real deal as we hiked Fitz Roy. A whole day of ice climbing, light snow, hills to climb and narrow passes to walk. The lagoon at the top was icy blue but beautiful, even in the winter white sky. 
In El Calafate we spent a windy morning on a glacier watching the ice calve and crash into the water.
Though we tried our best, we never had any great encounters with infamous Argentinian gauchos... only from a distance where we admired their seeming romantic and adventurous lives. 
Wandered through a winter street market in Bariloche ... 
Evening views of Bariloche from our 10th story hostel, where we watched the mountain sunset with mugs of tea and local chocolates. Surrounded by backpackers and travelers from all over the world coming back from afternoon adventures, everyone recounting their day's excitement to newfound friends. My heart is happy just remembering that night. 
Several of our hostels as we traveled south were hard to leave.. places so full of character (and views). The phone pictures don't do them justice. And for $20 or less a night! 
Halfway through our mountain adventures, we crossed into Chilean Patagonia to hike in Torres del Paine National Park. <<continued>>

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